How to Order at a Japanese Izakaya (Tokyo Guide)

An izakaya is a Japanese pub — but that translation undersells it. It's where coworkers unwind, where friends meet, where a meal stretches over hours of small plates and cold drinks. It's the single best way to eat like a local at night, and Tokyo has the densest, most varied izakaya scene on earth.

It can also be confusing the first time. You sit down and get a small dish you didn't order. The menu is all in Japanese. You're not sure how many plates to ask for. Let me clear all of that up.

Look for this: warm lanterns, a noren curtain in the doorway, and a stack of handwritten menus. That's the sign of a real izakaya.

Walking In

When you enter, staff will call out "Irasshaimase!" (welcome). Hold up your fingers to show how many people are in your group. They'll either seat you or point you to the counter.

Counter seats are great for solo travelers or couples — you're right in front of the action, and it's easy to point at what looks good.

The counter is the cozy, intimate side of izakaya culture — quiet, warm, and perfect for one or two people.

The Mysterious First Dish (Otoshi)

Soon after you sit, you'll get a small dish nobody ordered. This is the otoshi (お通し) — a small appetizer that doubles as a seat charge, usually ¥300–500 per person. It's not a scam; it's standard. Think of it as a cover charge that happens to be edible. Just enjoy it.

How to Order

The rhythm of an izakaya is different from a Western restaurant. You don't order one big main each. Instead, the table orders several small plates to share, and keeps ordering more as the night goes on.

A good first round for two people:

• Edamame — boiled soybeans, the default starter
• Karaage — Japanese fried chicken, almost always excellent
• Yakitori — grilled chicken skewers, ordered by the stick
• A drink each to start: "Nama biru" (draft beer) is the easy default

Karaage — order this. It's the most reliable dish on almost any izakaya menu, and a perfect match with a cold beer.

To get the staff's attention, it's completely normal to say "Sumimasen!" (excuse me) across the room. You're not being rude — that's how it works.

The Other Kind of Izakaya

Not every izakaya is a calm counter. Some of the most memorable ones are rowdy street stalls and tiny standing bars packed into alleys, where strangers end up talking and the night gets loud in the best way.

The other end of the spectrum: a buzzing street-side izakaya. Don't be shy — these are some of the friendliest places in Japan.

Both versions are "real." One is intimate and quiet, the other loud and social. Try both if you can — they're two sides of the same culture.

Where to Find Great Izakaya in Tokyo

You don't need a reservation or a famous name — half the fun is wandering an alley and ducking into whatever looks alive. These Tokyo districts are packed with izakaya and easy to explore on foot:

• Omoide Yokocho (Shinjuku) — a narrow lane of tiny smoke-filled yakitori bars right by Shinjuku Station. Atmospheric and very beginner-friendly.
• Nonbei Yokocho (Shibuya) — "Drunkard's Alley," a sliver of old Tokyo tucked beside the train tracks, minutes from Shibuya Crossing.
• Ameyoko (Ueno) — a loud market street with open-front izakaya where day-drinking is completely normal.
• Asakusa backstreets — older, calmer izakaya near Senso-ji, great if you want a quieter first try.

Any of these slot perfectly into a Tokyo itinerary — they're each a short walk from major stops.

Paying

In most izakaya, you pay at the register on the way out, not at the table. When you're done, say "Okaikei onegaishimasu" (check, please). They'll either bring a slip or tell you to pay at the front.

There is no tipping in Japan. None. The price you see is the price you pay (plus that otoshi charge). Trying to tip usually causes polite confusion, so don't.

A Few Quick Tips

• Set a rough budget. ¥3,000–4,000 per person buys a very satisfying night of food and a few drinks.
• "Toriaezu nama" — "a draft beer to start" — is the classic opening line. Use it and watch the staff smile.
• Don't over-order at once. Order a few plates, see how hungry you still are, order more. That's the whole rhythm.